Rebuilt from scratch after being dynamited by the retreating Soviets in 1941, Independence Square is the undisputed central hub of Kiev. It is a suitably impressive space, dominated by imposing Stalinist brutes like the Central Post Office and Hotel Ukraina. However, after renovations in 2002, the Square is no drab Soviet throwback. The gold-gilded feathers of Archangel Michael sparkle majestically above both a triumphant arch and the sky-scraping Independence Column, the glass domes of Globus shopping mall refract the Kyivan sun, water cascades down a space-age waterfall and fountain... And inevitably hungry tourists can also stop off for a Big Mac and fries!
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